Cosmetic Dermatology services I perform on a daily basis include injectables and lasers, as well as education on good skin care. A good quality skincare regimen complements these services and is a must when attempting to “turn back the hands of time.”
What ingredients should you be using?
This depends on if you have normal, oily, dry or sensitive skin.
Wash your face twice per day, no more, no less. Washing more than twice per day actually strips the skin, forcing the oil glands to go into “overdrive,” which leads to breakouts. Washing less than twice per day allows dirt and debris to accumulate on the skin which clogs pores, leading to blackheads and acne. Ingredients such as glycolic, lactic, and salicylic acid prevent dead skin cell accumulation and keep the pores open and clean.
As for your “actives,” or ingredients that are anti-aging, I recommend serums, as they penetrate the skin more effectively than a lotion. Definitely apply a moisturizer over your serum to keep the skin hydrated. Vitamin C, specifically L-Ascorbic Acid is an antioxidant which protects from environmental damage, improves brown spots, softens fine lines, and results in a more youthful appearance.
Treat your eyes gently as the skin is thin and sensitive. Effective ingredients include arnica, vitamin K, peptides and hyaluronic acid.
I recommend applying a moisturizer which contains hyaluronic acid over Vitamin C. Hyaluronic Acid holds 1,000 times its weight in water, making this an excellent hydrator without clogging pores. The appearance of fine lines will diminish, and the skin is more supple, resulting in a beautiful glow.
Lastly, don’t forget your sunscreen! This is the most important step in skincare. Protect your skin from the damaging effects of the sun. Be sure to use a broad spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen with a minimum SPF of 30. SPF only lasts 2-3 hours, so be sure to re apply. The sunscreen in your makeup does not count, as it does not provide enough protection.
As for your night routine, again, be sure to wash your face and neck before bed. An excellent anti-aging and anti-acne product is retinol. This magical ingredient softens fine lines, diminishes the appearance of pores, prevents breakouts and allows for a more youthful appearance. When first starting a retinol, I recommend applying 2-3 nights per week to slowly build your tolerance. If you see some flaking of the skin, this is normal, as retinol increases the skin cell turnover rate. Apply a moisturizer every evening, again I recommend a product with hyaluronic acid.
It takes time to see a visible change in the skin, so stick with your regimen, 8-10 weeks is average. If you get a breakout, know this can be normal when beginning a new skincare regimen as the impurities are coming to the surface.